Living in Saddam’s palace nice, except lack of running water

Originally published in Cumberland Times-News in June 3, 2005

Editor’s note: Phil Smith, a 1963 graduate of Ridgeley High School, moved around the United States until the mid-1990s when he became a consultant in developing countries. His work has taken him to Kazakhstan, Russia, Afghanistan and Iraq. Currently residing in Moscow, he has kept journals of his travels. The following are excerpts from those times.

Basrah, Iraq June 2003

Living in one of Saddam Hussein’s palaces is interesting but this one has some disadvantages. No running water means no shower or toilet. So we use shower bags and walk across the parking lot and access roads to the portable toilets. The kitchen is about 500 metres down the road. The British Army are excellent hosts and the food is unexpectedly good.

The A/C is now working most of the time (when there is electricity). The Army took out the cots and put in real beds with mattresses. That’s a nice improvement.

The weather is still quite warm. Daytime temperatures are from 115 to 120. At night it cools down to about 85. Humidity is relatively low which helps. Just have to drink lots of water (it’s a dry country and there is no beer allowed on the grounds). I have been told the temperature will go to 135 to 140 during August and early September.

We have taken one trip to Baghdad. Another interesting experience.

After a half-hour on the tarmac in Kuwait during the hottest period during the day, we finally took off again for Baghdad. It was so hot one of the crew collapsed and we had to stop in Basrah. So by 1 p.m. we were back where we started. At 4 p.m. we took off after finding another crew and arrived in Baghdad about 5:30 p.m.

Then the drive from the airport to the large palace where all the coalition personnel are working. First, we had to put on the helmets and flak jackets. Then we were slowed by the line of traffic backed up after a U.S. Army vehicle had been damaged by traveling over a land mine placed into a black trash bag. Big mistake. After the one hour drive in 125 degree heat, we finally arrived at the palace Saddam used to call home. It is so large I could not get it all in one photo. We got settled with our bags, including the body armor and helmet which weigh about 40 pounds. They put us into some modern trailers with a/c and real bathrooms that had showers and toilets with running water. Amazing the little things that one
misses when they aren’t available.

Next day we had meetings from 8 a.m. till noon. Then we had to hurry to catch the last bus to the airport because private escorts were not available. Another long wait in traffic lines and a two-hour wait at the airport before they lined us up for the march out to the Hercules sitting about 500 metres down the runway (and sitting there for several hours so it would be nice and warm when we get ready to board).

Lovely in 125 degree heat, especially with helmets and body armor. By the time we got to the plane and were loaded inside, I was totally soaked from the sweat.

Then back to Basrah and an overnight stay at division headquarters at the airport. On June 21 the Central Bank reopened with a ceremonial ribbon cutting by the Brigadier from the 7th Armored Regiment. A friend in Moscow wrote an e-mail that he had seen me on BBC TV and commented, “Nice haircut” (I had it cut to less than a quarter inch because it is easier to deal with in the mornings – just towel dry
and go).

We have now met with two more banks and made arrangements for them to be opened during the next two weeks. All the banks had been looted. These two had less damage than most and were the first we can get open and running to help pay the pensioners.

The next problem we will have is determining the amount of total deposits for businesses and individuals. We need to develop a plan for these depositors to withdraw their money. The problem is the looters took the cash and we haven’t recovered enough of the funds to cover the deposits. So the question will be whether the coalition forces will have enough seized assets to cover the cost of the deposits.

Most days we start at 6 a.m. By 6:30 my first meeting with the major at brigade is in progress to discuss funding for the day’s business and how many pensioners were paid the previous day. Each day we leave the palace at 7:40 for the 8 a.m. briefing meeting at the CPA South offices in central Basrah. (We have two new SUVs for our use.) Then meetings, discussions and issues all day. We try to leave the downtown office by 6 to go back to the palace. Then e-mails, meetings and briefings until 7:30 when we go to dinner.

During most evenings there is a meeting or two after dinner. And then finally back to the room and to bed by 11. Rather boring sometimes but being busy makes the days go by quickly.

So enough for this chapter. More later if time permits.