Constant dust keeps cleaning ladies busy

Originally Published in Cumberland Times-News in May 6, 2005

Editor’s note: Phil Smith, a 1963 graduate of Ridgeley High School, moved around the United States until the mid-1990s when he became a consultant in developing countries. His work has taken him to Kazakhstan, Russia, Afghanistan and Iraq. Currently residing in Moscow, he has kept journals of his travels. The following are excerpts from those times.

Kabul, Afghanistan March and April 2003

Well, we made it back and have no ill effects of the last three months in Kabul.

We were going to return to Moscow in March but the company suggested they may not pay for another airfare for Mar-ina. So we decided to stay and finish the contract. We finally had the guest house in good shape and were able to enjoy the basics of living.

We never got past the constant dust that was everywhere. Most of the streets in Kabul are dirt. There was a good deal of rain during the last three months (which has the benefit of ending the four-year drought). When it stopped, the cars would come to the center of the city and bring the mud with them. As soon as it dried, the other cars would whip up the dust that went everywhere. At least it kept the cleaning ladies busy. The dust got in all the clothes, the computers, and every orifice.

I met again with the family we visited in February. The 26-year- old lady whose husband had been killed by the Taliban is also a beautician. She does makeup for brides and the female members of bridal parties. I worked with her to do a business plan so she could become self-sufficient. Then, with another consultant, we loaned her the money to start a business where she will rent a space and do her work. We
think she will be able to move to her own flat within two or three months and have a monthly income large enough to take care of her and her daughter.

At the end of two years, she thinks she will have the money available to pay back the loan. Then we will suggest she find another family to help and “lend” them the same amount to start someone else off on their own.

During the last couple of months, the Taliban folks started showing up again. There were two occasions where rockets and bombs went off close to our house. Both times the blast shook the windows and ground enough to wake us and make for nervous sleep. But we never were involved with any problems. Oh, and there were earthquakes about every week. Most of those were small but enough to feel the
movement.

The work went well and I finished my project very successfully. At the end of the training, we had a ceremony at the central bank with Deputy Governors, Deputy Ministers, the British Ambassador and several other VIP’s in attendance. The TV crew from Kabul TV covered it and it was on the evening news. When we finally wrapped everything up, we packed all our goodies into five suitcases (we had to buy the fifth one while in Kabul). Then off to the airport for the flight on April 26th. Marina shed a tear when she had to say goodbye to the local staff who were a great help to us during the three months.

It was an interesting three-month experience in one of the least developed places on earth. And we are ready for the next trip, if invited. And, we are ready for the trip to Iraq. I have already received two invitations and am negotiating the details. The next chapter may be from an even more interesting
place.